Climbing Eze: A Medieval Hilltop Village Adventure Before Monaco

Èze was the kind of stop that I was really excited for.

We met in the hotel lobby at 10:00 am on a Wednesday, half-ready for a whimsical dive into a medieval setting and half-ready to melt in the South of France heat. The plan included Fragonard, the well-known perfume factory near the base of Èze village, but before the day started, we discussed ditching that part of the tour to spend our time climbing up to the medieval village instead.

Skipping the Fragonard in Eze felt a bit rebellious, but also practical. Dean had bought me Miss Dior the day before and I didn't really need more smells. Everyone knows the perfume stop is popular, and I’m sure it’s lovely, but the village was right there above us, perched on the hill and daring us to come up.

So we walked to the trail and started our ascent.

Èze looks almost unreal from below, especially before the climb starts.

The Climb up to Èze Village

The hike up was easy, though I wouldn’t call it effortless. It definitely isn't an accessible travel moment, but I'm fortunate that I'm still strong enough to do things like this. It had a few scrambly spots where I had to pay attention to my footing, but most of it involved switchbacks, which made the climb very manageable.

That’s one of the nice surprises about Èze. It looks dramatic from below, but the route up doesn’t feel like some intense mountain trek. It’s more of a steady climb where you keep turning around and the view of the ocean keeps getting better.

Both Dean and I were in sandals. So taking it slow helped. It wasn't necessary to rush, especially in the heat. The stone paths bounce the sun back at you, and by late morning, the village starts to feel like a beautiful little oven.

The reward is that each turn gives you a new angle: rooftops, cliffs, the sea, and those pale stone walls that seem to glow in the sun.

A History of Èze

Èze has that layered history that makes the South of France interesting. The area has been occupied for a very long time, partly because its position was so useful. From high up, you can see the coast, the sea routes, and anyone approaching from below.

The village is described as medieval, and that’s exactly how it feels when you’re walking through it. Narrow lanes twist between stone houses, archways frame little corners, and the whole place seems built more for defense than convenience. Like many hilltop villages in the region, Èze developed in a spot that gave residents protection and visibility.

Over the centuries, control of this part of the Riviera shifted between powers. The old castle that once stood at the top was destroyed long ago, but its ruins became part of the site where the famous exotic garden now sits. That garden, officially known as the Jardin Exotique d’Èze, is one of the big reasons people make the climb. It’s known for its succulents, sculptures, and wide views over the Mediterranean.

That was the part I was most excited for. But, of course, it was closed.

The village is all stone lanes, tiny turns, and stairways that make you want to keep wandering.

Handling the Disappointment

I’m not going to pretend I handled the garden closure with perfect grace. I was disappointed. The Jardin Exotique had been one of the things I really wanted to see in Èze, and after climbing all the way up, standing outside a closed garden felt like losing a prize.

That being said, Èze still gave us plenty to see.

We did what most people do in a village like this. We followed the crowds and wandered as far in as we could. There isn’t really one perfect route through Èze. The fun is in letting the lanes pull you along, turning when everyone else turns, then stopping when a viewpoint opens up or a shop window catches your eye.

It does get crowded, especially when tour groups arrive. There weren't any big groups on our visit, but there were tons of people. The crowds make the route easy to follow. If the gardens had been open, I’m sure we would have spent most of our time there. Since they weren’t, the village itself became the main event.

A Souvenir Stop

Èze is a unique experience. You feel the age of it under your shoes. It's all cobblestones and uneven ground. The walls are close, there are steps everywhere, and the views appear suddenly between buildings. It's very much a living place though probably few actually live in the village. It still has shops, cafés, signs, and tourists, and the bones of the place are old.

On the way back down through the village, I dipped into a little shop selling liqueurs. I had to go down stairs and into a cellar like room. It was the kind of place where colourful bottles line the shelves and suddenly buying something feels like part of the experience.

I picked up a small bottle of melon liqueur (cantaloupe flavor) for my mom as a souvenir. Melon liqueur just sounds like the Riviera in a bottle, sweet, sunny, and a little bit too tempting. The bottle was only about 200mL and I regret not buying a larger bottle.

Beating the Heat

From there, we wandered back down the street toward Fragonard. We were early for our van, which meant we had time to cool off before heading to Monaco. That’s where a slurpee stand came in handy. I got one flavored like Unicorn, and it melted consistently the whole time. It really did help cool us down as we sat in the shade drinking them.

Why I Have to Go Back Someday

If I went back to Èze, I’d check the garden schedule to ensure it would be open. Closures happen, especially with seasonal hours, maintenance, or private events. When a place is high on the wish list, it’s worth confirming before the climb.

I'd probably stay in the village for a night or two on a trip back to the South of France. Château de La Chèvre d’Or is right in Eze Village, rated exceptional, and while considerably priced for an evening, staying there would be the perfect opportunity to experience the old town when the crowds have disapppeared.

I’d also try to get there earlier in the morning. We met at 10 a.m., which worked fine for our tour timing, but Èze is a place that would be cooler before the day gets hot and before the lanes fill up. I suppose we got there around 11:00am, which was like the peak of the crowds and a morning visit would have been more magical.

I don’t regret choosing the climb over the perfume stop. Fragonard is a classic Èze stop, but the village is what stayed with me. Then the van pulled out and we headed towards Monaco.

Seeing Eze from a Boat

Weirdly, seeing Èze again later from the ocean made me remember the village. Eze is wonderful; it's a true South of France gem. The village looks completely different from the sea. From below, you understand just how high it sits and why people built there in the first place.

Even without the garden, the views around Èze are a huge part of the experience.

We climbed because the village was there. We wandered because the garden wasn’t open. We found a souvenir in a tiny shop and cooled down with slurpees before the next country on the itinerary. Monaco impressed us with its wealth.

For anyone planning a South of France route, Èze is worth making time for. Just wear good shoes, check the garden hours, and bring water. If things go sideways, sometimes that’s where the memorable parts sneak in.