Last Day in Ireland: Book of Kells and a 4:00am Wake Up Time
Updated: Sep 30
By our last day in Ireland, we had a rare travel feeling: we were done, but not in a bad way.
We didn’t feel like we’d missed anything huge. We weren’t trying to cram in anything else. We had enough time left to just move through the day without panic. We did some more browsing at Lego & souvenir shopping. That honestly felt like a blessing.
A Blueberry Cheesecake Donut Betrayed Me
Our first mission was Rolling Donut, because I had been thinking about the Blueberry Cheesecake Donut since the first time I'd tried it. You know when something is so good the first time that you build it up in your head? That was me.
So we went back. But it was just fine. I got a weird bite and didn't get the filling without mashing my teeth into the thing. It felt messy and not elegant. It was just not the same magical experience it had been the first time. I didn't even finish it this time.
After that, we had some time before our 1 p.m. booking at Trinity College. I had booked the Book of Kells and Old Library Experience the day before, mostly because Dean really wanted to see the library. I was curious too. The Old Library was the part of that experience that made us book it.
What Is the Book of Kells?
Before going, I knew the Book of Kells was famous. I didn’t fully understand why it mattered so much to Ireland until I started reading more about it.
The short version is that it’s an illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels, believed to have been made by monks around the 9th century. It’s known for its detailed decoration, rich colours, intricate lettering, and the kind of hand-done work that makes you stare at a page and wonder how anyone had the patience.
It’s important to Irish history because it connects art, faith, language, and scholarship from early medieval Ireland. It also survived through centuries of upheaval, which gives it this almost symbolic weight. It’s not just an old religious book sitting in a glass case. It’s one of those objects that helps people picture Ireland’s past as something made by actual hands.
That said, seeing it in person didn’t hit us very hard. The whole exhibit felt disjointed, like I was reading about the book out of order. I remember reading about the calfskin pages, but no real revelations came from reading before seeing. Then when seeing it, you can't flip through it obviously, so it was maybe the page it was flipped to, but it was anticlimactic.
I can appreciate what it is. I can respect the history. I can understand why people travel to see it. But emotionally, we weren’t blown away. Some things are like that when travelling. They’re important, but they don’t always become your personal highlight.
The Old Library Was Almost Impressive
The Old Library was the real reason we booked, and I did think it was cool.
The room has that grand, old-world library feeling, with long wooden shelves rising high above you. The shelves are two storeys high and at least 14 levels on the main floor. It would be very impressive if all the shelves were full.
Unfortunately, there is a restoration project going on, so only the first four shelves are filled. This gives you enough to imagine the full effect, but it isn't really that full experience. This was more disappointing than I'd imagined, because I knew going in about the restoration project. I didn't realize how much my imagination would fall short.
The scale of it was impressive, and you could tell how incredible it must feel when the whole room is full. I was just sad that, like La Ramblas in Spain, my travel plans were thwarted by restoration/ construction once again.
Shrinking Paris Plans
At some point that day, I also started thinking about our France plans.
I had not been smart enough to cancel Versailles on time, so that refund was gone. I was annoyed with myself, but also realistic. We were tired, and our travel pace was catching up with us.
Then I started thinking about the Eiffel Tower booking for the next day. It wasn't realistic because we'd be up at 4:00am. Doing something at 8:00pm wasn't rational.
This is where the difference between fantasy Paris and real-life Paris started kicking in. Fantasy Paris says you land, drop your bags, put on a cute outfit, and float over to Versailles like a movie scene. Real-life Paris says you're overwhelmed and tired and won't even make it to the Eiffel Tower seven and a half hours after you land.
So I opened the GetYourGuide app and cancelled. Thankfully, I was still within 24 hours. I got the refund.
Honestly, it was the right call. Paris was still waiting for us, and I wanted to enjoy it instead of dragging myself through a reservation just because past-me made plans when she had energy.
Room service and Packing
Back at the hotel, we ordered room service and packed for the kind of wake-up time that feels illegal.
Our alarm was set for 4:00am
There’s something so grim about packing the night before an early flight. Everything becomes a small task with emotional weight. Charging cables. Toiletries. Passports. The clothes you’ll hate wearing at the airport but still need to put on. The final room check where you lift blankets and stare under furniture like you’ve ever stored something important under a chair.
I barely slept.
Some of that was the early alarm, and some of it was probably my brain already being in the next country. Ireland was ending. Paris was starting. And even though I was excited, I was also tired in that deep travel way where your body is present but your mind is already at security.
The Aer Lingus Terminal
We got to the airport around 6 a.m. and made our way through the Aer Lingus terminal. We ended up getting our seats upgraded to the 7th row, which meant better leg room. At that hour, better leg room feels luxurious. We didn’t need champagne or a lie-flat seat. We just needed our knees to not touch the seat in front of us.
Then we boarded, settled in, and took off for Paris.
Ireland had been full, generous, and easy to love. Our last day wasn’t very exciting, but it didn’t need to be. It gave us a final donut, a famous manuscript, a mostly-empty old library, practical cancellations, and relaxed packing.
Read about our first day in Paris here. Arriving at CDG was eye-opening, but we salvaged the day.
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