Pompeii: Follow the Red Umbrella to the Brothels
- Jul 26
- 7 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
"In 79 A.D., Mount Vesuvius erupted, covering the city of Pompeii in meters of volcanic ash and preserving it for centuries. We often imagine that ruins are quiet, but today, Pompeii is bustling with tourists roaming the streets to learn how the Romans lived. The ancient streets felt hot, even in October, and I wore a leopard print dress as I followed our tour guide—the one with the red umbrella.
When we visited, it was still quite busy for a shoulder season, and the stone streets held the heat. We were traveling with a Globus tour and were split into two groups, something required by law for large groups in Italy. Even with the crowds and heat, Pompeii was one of the most memorable stops in southern Italy.
If we didn't take Globus' Italian Tapestry tour, seeing Pompeii could have been so much more difficult. On this tour, we went to Venice, Modena, Florence, Siena, Pienza, Rome, Sorrento, Positano & Capri. This tour was a great way to see a lot of places and things in Italy, without requiring extensive research and planning to make the trip happen. Tours like this are fantastic if you're new to traveling and want to get your toes wet in a certain destination. Globus handles the transport, the hotels, many activities & all the logistics for relatively affordable prices. Even better if you're an early riser, you won't regret planning Italy with Globus. You can even book this tour on TourRadar at no markup! |
The Importance of a Good Guide
A good Pompeii tour guide makes a real difference. Without one, the site might look like a maze of broken walls and uneven roads. With ours, the city started to make sense. She showed us many fascinating sites, including:
The amphitheater
The public baths
The bakery and shops
The brothel with its unique decorations
Streets with visible stepping stones and cart ruts
Viewpoints towards Mount Vesuvius
She pointed out reflective stones in the street, the raised stepping stones used to cross dirty roads, the amphitheater, the red light district, and the looming view of Mount Vesuvius in the distance.
Why Pompeii Needs a Guide
About 110 acres of Pompeii has been excavated. It wasn't just a few buildings preserved by volcanic ash. It was a working Roman city with homes, shops, baths, temples, brothels, and public spaces. That scale can be overwhelming on a self-guided tour. You might not know what you're looking at. The whole site looks similar at first glance. Signs help, but they do not always explain the little details that help you imagine what the site looked like in 78 A.D.
Our guide pointed out things I never would have noticed. The reflective stones in the roads were one of those details. They helped people see the streets at night when there was only moonlight. The stepping stones were another. Pompeii’s roads could be messy, with water and waste running through them. The raised stones let pedestrians cross without stepping into the muck. And still, there were gaps left for carts to pass through.
These details make a guided visit feel worthwhile. I wasn't just looking at ruins. I was learning how people moved through the city, where they gathered, how they worked, and how ordinary daily life happened before Mount Vesuvius erupted. Our guide also helped with pacing. Pompeii isn't a smooth walk; it's like the worst of cobblestone cities. A structured route kept us from wandering too long in one area and missing the major highlights.
Highlights of Our Pompeii Educational Tour
Our visit was short, about two hours, but there was reverence as she guided us through the historical sites. I remember being shown the amphitheater. It was impressive, and I could imagine Romans in the seats, watching games or plays. We climbed to the top of the stands and looked out towards Mount Vesuvius.
Later in the tour, she showed us the red light district. The Romans even carved symbols into the roads and buildings to indicate what the buildings were for. They had fully functioning brothels with hidden rooms. The girls would wait for their shifts and sleep in the same area. Our tour guide even said that at night, they would howl like wolves to advise men of their availability. This area of the ruins is complete with explicit frescoes, art that has been preserved for millennia. This was a significant feature of Roman life, and those seeking a tamer experience should consider a private guide.
At one point in the tour, we saw a clay figure molded from a depression left by one of the bodies of the Romans preserved by Mount Vesuvius. This person lay face-down in a crouched position, appearing to cover their head. Our tour guide pointed out something on their belt area that suggested they were enslaved. The experience of seeing the shadow of this tiny human was somber and stuck with me as we left the site. It must have been terrifying to witness the eruption and start getting covered with ash with nowhere to run.
How Much Does It Cost to See Pompeii?
Prices can change, so always check the official Pompeii archaeological park website before you go. That said, these general ranges are a helpful starting point for planning.
For many travelers, the best value is either:
A small group guided tour with entrance included;
A transport package from Naples or Sorrento plus a licensed guide;
A basic ticket and audio guide if you have already brushed up on your history and are comfortable navigating independently.
If you are already on an organized tour, like ours with Globus, the Pompeii visit was included as part of the itinerary. When comparing prices, look closely at the details. A tour that looks cheaper at first may not include the entrance ticket. Personally, we could have used another hour or two in the city, not necessarily guided, just to really appreciate the surroundings.
Here are some GetYourGuide options that appeal to me in hindsight:
Again, Globus handled our entry tickets and selected our tour guides. We both would have liked to spend more time at the site and explore a little on our own. We remember leaving early and waiting a long while for our bus while we ate gelato but wished we were still inside the archaeological site. If day-tripping from somewhere on the Amalfi Coast, springing for a private guide would have made the most sense.
DIY Travel to Pompeii from Naples
Take the Circumvesuviana train
The Circumvesuviana train is the classic budget route. It runs between Naples and Sorrento and stops near Pompeii.
From Naples, travelers usually depart from Napoli Garibaldi or Napoli Porta Nolana and get off at Pompei Scavi Villa dei Misteri. This station is close to the main archaeological entrance.
The ride usually takes about 35 to 45 minutes, depending on the train.
This is often the cheapest option, but it is not the most comfortable. Trains can be crowded, especially in high season. Keep bags close and avoid bringing large luggage if you can.
Take the Campania Express in season
The Campania Express is a tourist-oriented train that runs seasonally along a similar route. It generally costs more than the regular Circumvesuviana but can be more comfortable and have fewer stops.
If the schedule works, it is a good middle-ground option.
Book a guided day trip from Naples
A guided day trip is the easiest choice if you want fewer logistics. Many tours include round-trip transportation from Naples, Pompeii admission, and a guide.
Some also combine Pompeii with Mount Vesuvius, Herculaneum, or the Amalfi Coast. Be careful with combo tours, though. They can be efficient, but they may leave you with limited time at each stop. We would have wanted more time at Pompeii; two hours went by so fast.
DIY Travel to Pompeii from Sorrento
Take the Circumvesuviana toward Naples
From Sorrento, take the Circumvesuviana train toward Naples and get off at Pompei Scavi Villa dei Misteri.
The ride usually takes about 30 to 40 minutes. Like the Naples route, it is affordable but can be crowded. Try to travel earlier in the day if visiting during peak season.
Use the Campania Express when available
If you are visiting in season, check whether the Campania Express fits your timing. It can be a more pleasant ride than the regular commuter train, especially after a long day of walking.
Choose a Sorrento-based Pompeii tour
Tours from Sorrento are common and convenient. Many include hotel pickup or a central meeting point, transportation, and guided entry.
For travelers who do not want to manage train schedules, this is the simplest option. It also helps if you are visiting during summer, when the heat would drain your energy before you even arrive.
Heading Off to Sorrento
After the tour of Pompeii, we spent a few minutes in the gift shop but didn't find anything we had to have. We went out to the meeting point, grabbed gelato, and wished we were still inside the site. That night, we'd be staying at Grand Hotel Vesuvio in Sorrento. When we arrived, it was a welcome change from the small rooms we had in Venice and Rome. This room was large with blue trimming and throws for the bed. It was a great place to unwind for a few hours before we headed off to Positano that evening. The trip was such a whirlwind, and Pompeii would have resonated more deeply if we could have been there longer. Our optional trip to Positano had discovery time that was shorter than the drive there, and ultimately, the day would have been better spent at the archaeological site for longer.
Conclusion
Visiting Pompeii is not just a trip; it's an experience that connects you to the past. The stories of the people who lived there resonate through the ruins. I encourage you to take your time, explore, and truly absorb the history that surrounds you. Whether you choose a guided tour or venture out on your own, make sure to savor every moment. Life is too short not to embrace these incredible adventures.
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